John C. Taylor

Bimetallic-Thermostat

This Man and his Company, Otter Controls and Strix Ltd;

Have had a Profound influence on EVERYONE of us in the Modern World we’re Living in.

ROUGHYLY since 1979 this man and parts of the Company his Father,

Eric Taylor had grown, had been in our Lives for Quit some time.

 

OKAY, this isn’t a Riddle and YES, I had to look some of this UP on the NET…

When You’re Done reading this, walk into Your kitchen and look at Your KETTLE;

THIS idea stems from My last Post – COFFEE.

The Ironic fact is this, It’s not JUST the Coffee drinkers,

BUT there’s Tea Lovers as well as HOT Chocolate and MILO.

I suspect that there are Many Other warm Drinks and Brands elsewhere across the Glob.

 

The QUESTION which Boggled my Mind about our Trustworthy Kettle,

That is Until it doesn’t want to KETTLE anymore,

HOW does A electric KETTLE switch ITSELF off?

 

This is what I found…

Just a little, You do KNOW a Electric Kettle works with Electricity.

As well, when You buy yours, on the Box it shows something like this,

2400w at 240v, the Wattage is what You like to know about,

There COULD be others which would show 3000w or such,

They would be more Costly as well.

This Wattage indication is what Power – Electricity that the Kettle USES to Boil water.

The HIGHER the Wattage is the MORE Electricity the Kettle Uses.

 

The NEXT thing, ALL the Calculations are done on a Litre of Water.

ALL things Equal, You cannot make Truthful Conclusions if you do not Test

Everything Equal to each other.

With SCIENCE as well as with LIFE,

To SEE how things React to the Same Test – you have to Keep the Specifics the same.

ALL tests on the Boiling of water, Kept to ONE Litre will show us how fast it

Boils between the Various Kettles – thus, the Test would be as Close to Truthful as possible.

 

The reason for the TEST of Water to be Boiled, At the Capacity of 1 Litre;

That is to see the TIME it takes and if the Kettle would work Properly.

THE Longer the Kettle work at Boiling the Water,

Potentially the MORE Electricity it will use.

Even if you BUY a Stronger Kettle, it will use MORE Electricity,

But it would Boil the water Faster, working Hotter,

That said, IF you USE the Same volume of Water to BOIL…

 

We ADD the water we want to use; 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 cups of Coffee OR Whichever.

The Kettle is switched on.

IF and When you believe there’s Something Wrong with Your Kettle,

Believing it might be Faulty,

After You’ve Switched it ON, open the Lid – right after you’ve Switched it on.

LOOK at the Water, You’ll see the Water slowly React to the HEAT of the Element,

It would look like the Water is Swirling and You’d see a Physical Reaction.

AT instances it could Look a Little Creepy,

YET it’s just water Reacting to the Heat-Element of the Kettle itself…

IN THIS, you don’t have to wait LONG to see, know or Hear that the Kettle might NOT be working at all… (just thought you’d like that.)

 

OUR Kettle is good and starting to Boil the water.

HEAT rises and thus, the Water reacts Most from the Bottom and then Passes on the

Heat Energy to the Colder water at the TOP,

With the LID closed, it helps to Retain the Heat Energy,

Allowing for the Water to be Boil even More Rapidly.

When You Leave a the LID open, You’ll have to Switch Off the Kettle Yourself…

When LAST did you Experience this on Yourself?

This ALSO happens when the LID doesn’t Close Properly and It might be Time to

Replace the Kettle entirely.

 

OUR Kettle is by now Boiling the water.

This on Average takes about 2-3 minutes with a Standard Kettle.

The HEAT now Circulate the Entire Kettle and Even the Sides are Hot to the Touch.

Now here Comes the Kicker,

John C. Taylor and his Company Designed a Thermostat working INSIDE

OUR Kettles, working with the Heat Element.

The Electricity runs through the Thermostat, runs through the Heat Element,

Changing the Electrical energy to that of Heat so that the Water can be Boiled.

The Bimetallic Thermostat is what is Making the Kettle work.

This is Basically TWO plates Glue tightly together.

Each of the Two plates react differently to Heat.

While Water reaches it’s BOILING point at between 95-100 °C

It is the Steam which becomes even Hotter.

The Plates are Bent a little and so, With the Plate reacting to the Water/Steams’

Heat reacts, Like US kicking a Ball with our Foot,

You pull your Leg back then Swing Through to Kick,

The Plate is Pulled from its Normal position and When the Other react to the HEAT,

It Snaps back and Breaks the Circuit.

When the Electricity Doesn’t Flow through the Element,

The water stops Boiling and You’re Ready for the Hot Drink.

 

Just HOW many times have you Waited in the Kitchen or Thereabout,

Listening for that “click” / snapping Sound to KNOW You can Get started again.

 

If you Use a Stove-plate or Metal Container over a Fire,

You’ve got to LOOK or Closely Listen to the water or the Kettle on the Plate.

You see the Water Boiling in the Container over the Fire,

As with the Kettle Pot on the Stove,

Most of the Times like a Locomotive, the kettle-spout may Whistle because of the

Steam passes through it, creating a Possible sound…

NEITHER of these two has got that Bimetallic Thermostat to help THEM switch-off Automatically…

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